I Love Surfing in Oregon!

I love surfing in Oregon. I love my black wetsuit that makes me feel like a super hero. I love the rush of cold water to my face as I plunge into my first duck dive of a session. I love shifty beach breaks; where no one knows for sure where the peak will be. I love surfing with all my boys. I love those rarer days when I get to surf with my girls.

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I have surfed days where it has been so cold that when you get out of the water your hand starts to freeze to your surfboard. I have been alone in the ocean when it has started snowing on me and everything becomes so quiet. I have cried on big days in the cove when I was so scarred and frustrated. I have surfed those days that take all your energy just to get to the outside, only then to be outside and realize I do not want to be out here at all. Some days I will try so hard and only catch one wave because the waves are beyond my skill. Other days I will catch hundreds of tiny fun, fish style waves. I have been out on perfect days where it has been only my buddies and I sharing so much stoke for each other, wave after wave. Sometimes the waves look horrible from the beach, only to surprise you when you paddle out there.

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I was surfing in the cove years ago. All the guys were barking over by shore break and I wanted space so I paddled north to be alone. A wave was coming from outside and I started paddling for the wave. Just as I was ready to pull in, I was looking left and a huge baby gray whale pulled in beside me and started to ride the wave. I immediately pulled out of the wave, started laughing and yelled out “the waves all yours!” I sat in awe watching the backlit green waves and a giant baby whale surfing all the way into the cove until he disappeared back into the depths. I looked out to sea and saw the baby’s mama breach outside. I then looked over to the boys barking at each other, none of them had just seen what I had seen.

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